Article
Niacinamide in Skincare: What the Evidence Says
Niacinamide is in countless serums and moisturisers. What the frequently cited studies actually tested, what they found, and where the evidence runs thin.
Niacinamide turns up in serums, moisturisers and toners, often with a percentage printed large on the front. It is a form of vitamin B3, also known as nicotinamide, and it has a longer research history in skincare than many newer ingredients. A lot of that research, though, is small, a couple of decades old, and was done by people working for the companies that sell it.
Here’s what the frequently cited studies actually did, and how far their results reach.
What niacinamide is
A 2014 review from the dermatology department at Martin Luther University Halle-Wittenberg describes niacinamide as the amide of vitamin B3: a water-soluble substance the body also makes itself. The authors call it well tolerated and note that it is widely used in cosmetics. On an ingredient list it appears as Niacinamide.
The studies behind the claims
| Study | Who or what was tested | What was applied | Reported results |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bissett et al., 2005 | 50 white women with visible signs of sun-related skin ageing | 5% niacinamide on one half of the face and the same cream without it on the other, twice a day for 12 weeks | Fewer visible fine lines, wrinkles and dark spots, less red blotchiness and sallowness, better elasticity on an instrument test |
| Hakozaki et al., 2002 | 18 Japanese women with hyperpigmentation, and 120 with facial tanning | A 5% niacinamide moisturiser against the plain moisturiser; 2% niacinamide with sunscreen against sunscreen or the plain base | Less hyperpigmentation and lighter skin than with the plain base after four weeks |
| Tanno et al., 2000 | Human skin cells in the lab, and dry skin | Nicotinamide added to cultured skin cells, and applied to dry skin | More ceramides, the fats that help form the skin’s barrier, and less water loss from dry skin |
The 2002 paper also looked at how niacinamide might affect pigment. In lab models, it didn’t stop pigment from being made. Instead, it reduced the transfer of pigment packets, called melanosomes, from the cells that produce them to the surrounding skin cells.
Where the evidence runs thin
These studies are why niacinamide has a solid reputation, but they leave real gaps:
- They are small and short. Dozens of participants, followed for weeks rather than years.
- They tested narrow groups. One trial included only white women and another only Japanese women. Results may differ for other skin types and ages.
- Several studies had industry affiliations. The lead authors of the 2002 and 2005 studies worked for Procter & Gamble, and the 2000 study came from a company laboratory at Kanebo in Japan. That doesn’t make the findings wrong, but independent studies carry more weight.
- They measure appearance. Results were graded from photographs and instruments over a few weeks. They describe how skin looked, not long-term skin health.
- They tested specific formulas. The 5% cream from 2005 is not the serum on today’s shelf, which has its own concentration and other ingredients.
Niacinamide has also been studied in various skin conditions. The 2014 review concluded that the existing clinical data were not yet sufficient for a scientifically founded evaluation of that use. Questions about a skin condition are best taken to a dermatologist.
Reading a niacinamide product
Concentration. The studies above used 2% and 5% niacinamide. They do not establish that higher concentrations work better.
Position on the list. Without a stated percentage, the ingredient list gives only a rough clue. Under US rules, ingredients above 1% are listed from most to least, but anything at 1% or less can appear in any order. Our guide to reading a skincare ingredient list explains what that means in practice.
Tolerance. Niacinamide is generally described as well tolerated, but that’s a statement about the ingredient, not about every product containing it. A particular formula can still disagree with a particular person’s skin.
Sources
The research and official guidance this article draws on.
- Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 2005 (checked )
- The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. British Journal of Dermatology, 2002 (checked )
- Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. British Journal of Dermatology, 2000 (checked )
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 2014 (checked )
- Cosmetics Labeling Guide. U.S. Food and Drug Administration (checked )
This article is general information, not medical advice. Skin can react differently to the same product. For questions about a skin condition, a reaction to a product or a prescribed treatment, talk to a dermatologist, doctor or pharmacist.
Who wrote this
Nourlume is an independent online publication about supplements, skincare and everyday wellness. Pieces credited to Nourlume rather than a named writer follow our editorial policy, which explains how we research, source and update our work.
